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CanvasCamp Stove Tips & Tricks

Stove tips and tricks

Designed specially for Sibley tents, the Orland stove is the realization of a long-awaited dream; a truly portable luxury camping stove. Being able to watch the relaxing dance of the flames inside the firebox is not only mezmerizing, but is a marvel of modern glass technology. However, operation of a wood stove, particularly a sophisticated stove like the Orland comes with a learning curve. When you first use your stove, you may notice a dark haze quickly spreading across the glass, particularly where the end of a log is close to the glass. Within minutes, the haze may become completely black until you can no longer see the inside the firebox in the affected area. Oh no! Is it burnt? Is it ruined? Will the glass shatter in a few minutes? No. This is not only completely normal, the stove can be adjusted to clean this and prevent it on it's own.

The most important thing to know is to not burn “green”, fresh-cut or “uncured” wood. Proper wood for stoves must be pre-dried. The ideal moisture content for cured wood is about 20%, which is the equivalent of green wood that has been cut & stacked for 12mos depending on your local environment. Attempting to burn uncured wood will cause a number of issues due to the high moisture content of the wood and make the job of the airwash system considerably more difficult.

You will notice the Orland has 2 air intake vents in the door; one on the bottom and one on the top. The bottom one is specifically to allow air into the bottom of the fire, control it's rate of burn, and the overall output of the stove. The top vent is for fine-tuning the performance of the stove, and is called an airwash. The airwash vent draws fresh air over the glass, allowing the impurities to be burnt and “washed” away from the glass.

Mastering the operation of a stove is something you can read about, but requires hands-on experience to do. In brief, do not close the airwash completely, but leaving it wide open will reduce your fuel efficiency. Leave it open just enough so that soot is not building up on the glass. In theory, the wood should not be touching the glass, but in practice you will find that the burning wood pile will shift on it's own. If your glass begins to darken, just open the airwash a little. It is impossible to ruin the glass with soot, and should you ever desire to wash it, make a paste of the wood ash and scrub it with a rag. Household cleaners will have no effect on the soot.

Remember also that the bottom vent is the primary control for stove output. The cooler the stove is operating, the easier it will be for soot to accumulate. For example, if you have adjusted the bottom vent mostly closed to cause a slow burn, and then add more wood, open the vent a little to create more heat until the new wood is burning. With a couple months practice, the operation of your stove will become second-nature and you will put about as much thought into the processes as you do a gas range.